I Tried Icelandic Fermented Shark — Does Hakarl Really Taste That Bad?
Hakarl or Icelandic fermented shark, sometimes called the “rotten shark,” is one of the weirdest foods to try in Iceland. This traditional Icelandic fermented shark has such a wild reputation that even celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain called it “the single worst, most disgusting thing” he’s ever tried. And as soon as I heard about hakarl’s infamous reputation, I knew I had to try it for myself. I mean, could it really be as bad as everyone says?
I’m not going to sugarcoat it – Icelandic fermented shark or hakarl, has a strong smell that most people compare to ammonia, and a taste that’s… well, let’s just say it’s memorable. But there’s something fascinating about trying local delicacies when you travel, even the weird ones. Whether you’re an adventurous traveler looking to check off another bucket-list item or just curious about Iceland’s most unusual food, you’re about to learn everything you need to know about Icelandic fermented shark or hakarl.
What Exactly is Icelandic Fermented Shark (Hakarl)?
Icelandic Fermented Shark or hakarl is a traditional Icelandic dish made from Greenland shark. It’s fermented shark meat that’s been part of Iceland’s food culture for generations. The meat goes through a specific fermentation process that makes it safe to eat, as fresh Greenland shark meat is actually poisonous to humans because of its high levels of natural toxins.
Check my full experience over on Instagram ↓
History of Icelandic Fermented Shark or Hakarl
The history of Icelandic fermented shark or hakarl dates back to the Viking Age when Icelanders had to get creative with their food preservation methods. Living on an island with harsh winters and limited resources, they discovered that while fresh Greenland shark meat was poisonous, they could make it edible through a unique fermentation process. This wasn’t just a random experiment – it was pure survival. The massive Greenland sharks provided huge amounts of meat, making them a valuable food source if they could figure out how to eat them safely.
Over the centuries, hakarl became more than just a survival food – it turned into a symbol of Icelandic resilience and resourcefulness. The traditional fermentation process, passed down through generations, remains pretty much unchanged. While modern Icelanders now have plenty of food options and don’t need to eat hakarl for survival anymore, they continue to make and eat it as part of their cultural heritage. Today, you’ll find hakarl served during traditional festivals, especially during Þorrablót (the midwinter feast), where Icelanders celebrate with traditional foods like this infamous fermented shark.
Why Is Greenland Shark Meat Poisonous When Fresh?
The Greenland shark is one of the most fascinating creatures in the Arctic waters and a crucial part of Iceland’s food history. These giants can grow up to 24 feet (7.3 meters) long (that’s as big as a bus!), making them one of the largest sharks in the world. What’s really mind-blowing is that they’re also the longest-living vertebrates on Earth – scientists have found some that are around 500 years old, and they don’t start reproducing until they’re about 150 years old! They swim super slowly in the deep, cold Arctic waters, sometimes as deep as 7,200 feet (2,200 meters) below the surface. While they’re pretty mysterious and rarely seen by humans, they’ve become famous in Iceland for being the key ingredient in hakarl.
But fresh Greenland shark meat is poisonous because it contains high levels of natural toxins – mainly something called TMAO and urea. These compounds help the shark survive in deep, cold Arctic waters, but they make the meat dangerous for humans to eat. If someone tried to eat fresh Greenland shark meat, they’d get really sick with symptoms like dizziness and vomiting. That’s why Icelanders came up with the fermentation process to make hakarl. During the fermentation, these toxic compounds break down into safer substances. While this process makes the meat safe to eat, it’s also what gives hakarl its famous (or infamous!) ammonia smell.
How Exactly is Icelandic Fermented Shark or Hakarl Made?
Traditionally, Icelanders made hakarl by digging a deep hole in the gravelly soil near the beach. They would place the beheaded Greenland shark in this pit, cover it with more gravel and heavy stones to press out the fluids, and let it ferment for 6-12 weeks. After fermentation, they would cut the meat into strips and hang it in a drying house (hjallur) for several months, letting the cold Arctic wind dry the meat while protecting it from direct sunlight and rain.
Today, the process has been modernized, though the basic principles remain the same. The main producer of hakarl, the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum, uses plastic containers with drainage holes instead of gravel pits for the fermentation process. The Hildibrandsson family, who runs the museum and has been making hakarl for five generations, still uses their traditional drying house for the second part of the process. While the containers might be modern, the timing, temperature control, and drying techniques remain largely unchanged – proving that sometimes the old ways are still the best ways.
The Smell and Taste of the Icelandic Fermented Shark or Hakarl
The smell of Icelandic fermented shark hakarl is… well, let’s just say it’s an experience my nose won’t forget anytime soon. Imagine the strongest ammonia smell you’ve ever encountered, then multiply it by about a hundred – that’s what you’re dealing with here! When I first smelled it, all I could detect was pure ammonia. The smell is so potent that many locals actually keep their hakarl in tightly sealed containers, and some restaurants serve it outside to avoid the aroma taking over the whole place.
When it comes to the taste of Icelandic fermented shark hakarl, it’s like nothing else in this world (and maybe that’s a good thing!). The texture is chewy and very salty, and the taste starts out mild but gets stronger as you chew. All I could taste was an overwhelming ammonia flavor with just a hint of fish in the background. Locals often chase it with a shot of Brennivín (Icelandic schnapps) – and after trying it myself, I totally understand why! Some people say the second bite is easier, but I can confirm from personal experience – it definitely wasn’t! In fact, this was probably the worst thing I’ve ever tasted in my life.
Tips for Eating Icelandic Fermented Shark Hakarl
Start Small – Like, Really Small
Don’t try to be a hero and pop a whole cube in your mouth! Cut the hakarl into tiny pieces before you even start – trust me, trying to chew through a whole cube was a huge mistake. The smaller the piece, the easier it will be to handle.
Hold Your Breath (No, Really!)
The smell is way worse than the taste, so here’s a local trick: breathe through your mouth, not your nose, when you’re about to eat it. Some Icelanders even pinch their nose while eating hakarl. No shame in that game – whatever works!
Pick Your Timing
Don’t try hakarl right before or after a meal – it’ll ruin everything else you eat. Also, maybe don’t make this your first activity of the day. Mid-afternoon, when your stomach is neither full nor empty, is perfect.
Have A Drink Ready
Keep a glass of water nearby – you’ll definitely need it! The salty, ammonia taste lingers, and you’ll want something to help wash it down. I found that beer worked best for me, but water is just as good.
Don’t Force It
If you try Icelandic fermented shark and really can’t handle it, that’s totally okay! There’s no rule saying you have to finish it. Many tourists (including me) are done after just one tiny piece, and there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that.
Where Can You Get Icelandic Fermented Shark or Hakarl in Iceland?
You can find Icelandic fermented shark hakarl in several places across Iceland. The most authentic experience is at the Bjarnarhöfn Shark Museum on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, where you can learn about the history, see how Icelandic fermented shark hakarl is made, and of course, try some samples. If you’re in Reykjavík, many traditional restaurants serve Icelandic fermented shark hakarl, including the famous Café Loki across from Hallgrímskirkja church. You’ll also find it at tourist spots like the Kolaportið flea market (open on weekends) in downtown Reykjavík, where locals sell traditional Icelandic foods.
Many food tours in Reykjavík include hakarl tasting as part of their traditional Icelandic food experience – it’s usually served alongside other local delicacies, which might make the whole experience a bit less intimidating. For those who want to try it at home, large supermarkets like Bónus or Krónan stock hakarl in their refrigerated section – I found it there for around $13 (1,800 ISK) for a whole container, which was definitely the most budget-friendly option!
So, Should You Try Hakarl? Here’s My Honest Answer
If you want to try it for the taste and only for that, I would definitely recommend staying the heck away from it! The intense ammonia smell, super salty and chewy texture, and that lingering fishy aftertaste make it one of the worst things I’ve ever eaten. However, if you’re an adventurous traveler who loves unique experiences (like me!), then yes, you should absolutely try it at least once. Just remember to cut it into tiny pieces, have a drink ready, and maybe don’t plan any fancy meals right after!
